To the Masai Manyatta

On Thursday we did some shopping at a store in Athi River town. I had forgotten I needed to set up a “kitchen” at my house. A pot, pan, fork, spoon, glass, plastic basin for washing dishes as well as the food, water and supplies. We had to rent another motorbike taxi to haul some of our purchases. On Friday we headed to see the Masai. I was so pleased to see two early childhood classrooms in operation. Pictured below is one classroom. The building was a left over water building from the chicken warehouses. The Early Childhood Center is called Esarunoto (Refuge). The rooms are small, cement, crude and extremely dark but there are close to 50 preschool students registered and going to school everyday! Porridge is served to them daily and when something happens that the porridge is not available, the little kids cry from hunger. Above are children waiting at the cook shed for porridge to be cooked for the morning meal.

Two Masai young women serve as teachers. There are no learning materials but you can hear the children counting, going over the alphabet and taking all the students to the new latrine. The kids need to be taught how to use the latrine. There are no latrines in the Manyatta. They also begin teaching the children about HIV/AIDS. It is with the young that we are hoping to have some impact on HIV/AIDS reduction. The adults are resistant to discussing the subject.

We visited the mother of a young mentally challenged girl in the village who died two weeks ago in a fire in their mud and stick house. She had been left alone and tried to cook something. The fire quickly consumed the small dwelling. When the mother saw Mwololo and me today, she began weeping once again. She said that when she saw me – she remembered her daughter. I had taken video of mother and daughter a few months ago. So sad.

We saw yet another dead cow. The drought continues and cattle are dying. Interestingly, passing through the manyatta was a herd of over 60 camels! What a sight! It looked like Egypt! There is a Manyatta of camel herders over the ridge. They are from Somalia and there is a camel butchery about 30 minutes away. (That is 30 minutes by car, not by camel,)

We paid a visit to a house built near the Masai Manyatta. The owner has agreed to allow us (the Dayvare Center) to harvest rainwater from the roofs of a structure on his property. Monday morning, a fundy (casual laborer/carpenter) will remodel the gutter system, install a huge polyethylene tank and we will wait for the rains. When they come, the water will be used at the school and around the manyatta.

We ran into Fred, the young Masai who will take me out for some days and nights with the herds. He remembered his promise.

Inside the Place

Here is the inside of the place. Nice eh? Ben cooked some.

Today is Sunday and it is the first time I am alone in my room. Benjamin stayed for 3 nights to make sure I could handle my own cooking and housekeeping. Ben is 28 years old and says it is against his culture (He is Trukana tribe.) to see an elder working if there are young ones around. So Ben cooked, cleaned, mopped, did my laundry – all that stuff, out of respect for my old age. He is a great guy but I am looking forward to living alone and beginning my time in solitude at night. Ben, like very many in Kenya is looking for a job. I think he was auditioning for houseboy. There’s just no room. Ben is an interesting young man who literally bears the scars of his youth from severe caning and various curative rituals when he was a boy. He was an orphan for much of his life and now he struggles to find food to eat each night and is staying in a friend’s room in Nairobi. I met him about a year ago at the Village when he was doing work with the religious order he has since left.

Cooking will be my biggest struggle. The nearest store is a motorbike ride away and with no refrigerator, you need to shop often. So far, Ben and I cooked rice and tomatoes, cabbage and tomatoes, and I made pasta and tomatoes. Ben ate rice – no pasta. We also made peanut butter and jam sandwiches. I will always need to buy water since it was in this part of Athi River that I got typhoid last visit. I am fine now.

Coming In From London

Mwololo has a meeting in Nairobi today so I am accompanying him to town. That is how I came to be able to paste all of these journal entries in the blog today – at an Internet “café”.

Nairobi. I know a pilot for BA that can leave notes for whatever aircraft crew hauls me to Nairobi. British Air and the Nairobi-bound flight crews are connected to Nyumbani Children’s Home and these British crews do volunteers work on their layovers at Nyumbani. Anyway, a note was left for the pilot and I got a great seat, food and some sleep on the way to Nairobi. I got into Nairobi at about 9:30pm, not optimal time to arrive in Kenya. Needless to say, it is dangerous after dark. I had gotten an email from Benjamin, a young friend and nowI arrived safely in Nairobi Wednesday night. After the problems leaving New York’s weather, the visit in the new Heathrow Terminal 5 went smoothly, as did the meet-ups with my sons. I enjoyed seeing the boys in London; if only for a short time. The boys got safely back to JFK and home in good time. I was grateful to be bumped up to Business Class on British Airways to ex-seminarian I had met in the village in days past. He said he was arranging to have me picked up and would escort me to a hotel that he chose. He did indeed meet me at the airport, had a safari van waiting for me and we headed for downtown Nairobi. It was close to eleven and the city was alive, at least near where the hotel was. I got inside the old downtown hotel as quickly as possible. The Diplomat Hotel had seen better days. The place was old, in need of repair, a good cleaning and some rewiring and plumbing. There were screams, screeches, chanting and such all night long from the streets four floors down. The place actually was quieter with the morning rush hour traffic. I could go on describing my fears of the place but what’s the point? It was a little scary but Ben stayed with me. It cost about $20 and included a breakfast in the greasy spoon next door.

My best Kenyan friend George called me at the hotel. He wanted to welcome me back and to warn me not to use public transportation when traveling today and avoid Kitengela, a small town near Athi River. Kitengela is actually where George lives and I have been there many times. Apparently the Mungiki, a well organized, armed, violent, extortionist gang had made threats strong enough to stop all pubic transportation in and out of Kitengela and Athi River. This group was thought to be responsible for many hundreds of murders last year during the post-election violence. If violence erupts again in Kenya, they will have something to do with it. The best comparison to the Mungiki would be the Mafia.

So the next morning, after breakfast, Ben and I hired a cab to take us to Athi River from the Diplomat Hotel. You often see a police presence in Nairobi but, at Athi River, we saw more soldiers and police to deal with the gangs of thugs who threatened to make problems this day. We met Mwololo, the MWEP (Masai Women Empowerment Project) director at a main turn-off and drove to my new home for the next three months. I’ll try to get some pics posted but you should know the place is beautiful. From a distance it looks like a condo complex from the states, glistening among the rough Athi River cement factory warehouses and dump trucks whizzing by in a cloud of white dust. These new buildings are actually attached homes, two story, well landscaped and maintained. Of the 100 or so units, only three have been occupied! I am living in the servant quarters of one of them. Apparently, houses (and even condo-types like these) are sold with a side building for the servant of the house. Half of these condos have (or will have when occupied) a servant. A Kenyan man working in the US owns the “big house” where I stay. His wife is a teacher in Nairobi (I think) and they have two young kids, Victor and Victoria. The kids are great and the mom and her housekeeper are very open and friendly. They are Kamba but speak English. The pics above are of the complex I am staying. I have one room in the little building in front of the apartment. Click to enlarge pics. My place is a one-room structure with a simple bathroom and running water – although it is undrinkable. It has a shower, although there is no hot water. I am use to that. I am just glad to be free from the bucket shower. The complex is walled, monitored by watchman day and night and very close to 5 of the Masai manyattas. The actual project site where I am involved is a good distance away and would take hours to walk to it. A Masai man stopped by to tell me that he would be bringing me a cup of fresh cow’s milk each morning at no charge – just to be nice to the white guy. I can boil it on my little propane tank and maybe make oatmeal or hot cereal each morning.

(Note: My friend Mwololo cautioned me about taking the milk. Boiling takes care of some things but he says the way it is milked, the containers etc. are not sanitary. So, if I complain later of stomach issues – refer to this note!)

London

I always enjoy London. It has been my initial destination whenever I would travel to Europe. I always felt comfortable in London and traveling around the city. There is a feeling of intensity, similar to what I have recently found in NYC. It is busy, often cold and rainy but has an excitement of a major city. There is also the reminder of security issues. Even this morning, after an attack on a sports team in another part of the world, the city of London has increased security. You can feel it on the Underground. More police, more dogs, more announcements. Today I am free to travel around London and spend time relaxing and looking at stuff, probably museums, the river, the regular tourist sites. The weather is cool but not as frigid as New York a few days ago. There are signs of another big movie premier tonight. Last night Jennifer Aniston was here for a big movie premier. Interesting, pop culture versus heading for the Masai village! Two worlds - two planets.

I found an article in the Saturday NY Times about recurring violence in Kenya. Check out this link if you can. LINK HERE

Everything else goes well. I leave tomorrow morning and get to Nairobi about 10pm on the 4th of March. Then the adventure begins anew. I get that excitement back when I get close to returning to Kenya. It is difficult to explain but I am happy, smiling, confident and grateful for this experuience. There is no fear, no anxiety (now that someone is picking me at the airport!) It will all be fine and I am hoping we can do some good work for the Masai women and children. www.mwep.blogspot.com

NYC and London

Saturday and Sunday I had a great visit in Brooklyn with members of Grace Church, Brooklyn Heights. What a wonderful group of people and eager to help with the Masai project. I flew (through the snow storm) to London and arrived today to meet my two sons at Trafalgar Square. They are in London to see two professional soccer (football) games. They leave tomorrow morning and I leave for Nairobi on Wednesday morning. I arrive in Nairobi at 10pm, not a great time to get to the city. Hoping there will be a friend to accompany me to Athi River or at least to the city. Nairobi at night is not good. Hoping to write more soon from Kenya. Thanks!!

Final Check

I think I have finished my little shopping trips to gather final items needed to take to Kenya. I stocked up on razorblades, Tylenol and other things that are more difficult to get in Kenya. I also found a new pair of sandals. I always seem to end up giving them away when I am leaving Africa. My friend George broke his leg and needed some slip on shoes. The other sandals were given to some of the boys in the village. Anyway, I have purchased another cheap pair. Also, Chris bought me a new backpack for the trip. My old one has been through the war – literally. It went with George to Nairobi during the post-election violence, accompanied us to Uganda, went on safari and made numerous beer runs on the back of a motorbike. My record is carrying 16 bottles of beer in the old backpack up to the village – no broken bottles! The old one is filled with rips and holes.

I received some budget figures for funding a water project from Mwololo in Kenya. We are hoping to get some assistance to fund a clean water project among the Masai but there are three options for us: drill a borehole, have water piped in from Athi River, or have water delivered by truck to large tanks. All three options are expensive and have their good and bad points.

Today I had breakfast with the three kids. It is rare that all three get free form work at the same time. I’ll be with the boys in London. That should be cool. I wish they could all three come to Kenya for a while. It is difficult due to their jobs. But I am glad they have jobs!

I downloaded to an IPod, some talks and presentations that I can use as meditations and things to think about when I have some time to myself. I am not sure but am thinking I will have a lot of time to myself – at least many nights will be spent with little if anything to do. Athi River is not the kind of place where you can move around freely at night. I kind of stick out, as most white guys do, and would be considered someone who has money. You can easily become a target of robbery and pick pockets. Where I will be staying is off the main road, a distance from the town of Athi River along a dirt road. You don’t want to be caught away from home on that dirt road at night. Not to worry, I have friends in Athi River town and Kitengela if I do happened to get stuck away from home. I know the towns pretty well, where to go and where not to go!

It is becoming easier to travel back and forth to Kenya. I know what to take, what to leave at home. It will be even easier if I can leave stuff in my room in Athi River and not have to lug a big suitcase through two or three airports.

Masai Food Relief Video

MASAI PROJECT WEBSITE

www.mwep.blogspot.com

For information on our work at Athi River

Another Tragic Death

I received an email from my friend Mwololo at the Athi River Masai project. He informed me that another child died last night, this time because of a fire. A twelve-year-old girl with mental challenges apparently tried to cook in the house and a tragic fire started. All cooking is done within the Masai houses made of branches and mud. She died in the fire and the funeral is today. So sad. This is the fourth death in the Masai village since I have been involved with them… Two children died from eating poisoned meat. One other drowned. It reinforces the fragility of life in Kenya. These are not the only deaths I have been close to in Kenya. You’ll remember that two boys drowned at the Village last year. I also came upon a man dead in the streets of Nairobi. And then there were the thousands who died in the post-election violence – some of whom were family members of Kenyan friends. A couple of the day workers died of malaria in the Village as well. Life is short. Love hard.

As my time to leave for Kenya nears (I will fly Friday, Feb 28) I am very excited about my new living situation. I will have my own place, one room, cloister-like I assume. I want that. My friend Mwololo is buying me a bed and a tank of propane gas and cooking burner. That’s about all I need to start out. Everything else I will need I can gradually gather. I look forward to a more monastic lifestyle. That will take some work since my contemplative side needs some help! My room is close enough to the manyatta that I can yell to the Masai houses and can walk to the site. I was promised by a couple of the Masai men that they would take me out with them and the herds as they search for grazing land. Sleeping under the stars, keeping a lookout for wild animals, eating meat as a white Masai . . . who could ask for a greater experience? They said I could go for 28 days. I’ll take two or three! The tribe has also promised that I could live with them in the Manyatta as a Masai. I look forward to the experience of living in a traditional mud house . . . at least for a few days.

I have packed, unpacked and packed several times. I am convinced I can get all of my belongings into my one big suitcase. I also want to take a sheet, towel, computer printer, laptop, etc. I’ll keep packing.

I am trying to make email contact with a Nairobi Rotary Club. Together with the Florence Kentucky Rotary, we are trying to get some partnering to fund the Masai project. I will be talking with parishioners at a Brooklyn parish as I travel through NYC to London, to Nairobi. I love New York.

All else goes well. Thank you - thank you!

Back to Kenya Soon

I arrived back in the States from Kenya right before Christmas. My return was a compromise I worked out with my mom. I have had a great time in the states. I have visited with my children, my mom and wonderful friends. I have spoken to some groups and come classes. I visited with my friends at the Rotary in Florence and was able to tell my story on Christian radio with Brian Patrick. Some friends from IHM also gathered to welcome me home and I visited an assembly at the school. It has been a profitable time but after a month or so at home, I get excited about returning to Kenya. Two or three months at home has been my usual length of time. With no real job – my days can get very long.

I am looking for the best date to return but it will probably be in about two weeks. (the end of February) The boys are going to London to see two soccer games and it would be great to be with them for a day or so. Flights to Nairobi have come down in price (British Air from London to Nairobi) and my flight to London is fairly cheap due to discounts. I’ll probably stay three months this trip.

My Kenyan friend, Mwololo, has found a place for me to live in Athi River, the site location of our Masai project. www.mwep.blogspot.com Next to the Masai houses is what can only be described as an apartment complex! The apartments are actually condos, not for rent. But there is a servants’ quarters on the property. Mwololo describes the room as 7-foot square. After talking to him, we decided he does not know how to measure and the size will be fine. Even some of the Masai guys I work with are night watchmen and security guards there. I am excited. I can walk to work.

Today I went to the stores to buy little supplies I need – Advil, razor blades, socks, etc. It is fun to prepare and I know what I need, after three prior trips. I also met with a board we put together to oversee my work and help support the efforts. They are a great group of people with great ideas, great energy and a willingness to help the cause.